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Extremely Sad and Incredibly Inconsistent

16 Jun

Jonathan Safran Foer is my favourite writer of fiction. For years his work has earthquaked the world of storytelling for me. ‘Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close’ is my favourite story ever told. I have found myself wandering around in the worlds he has built, in love with each of the characters so much so that ending a story feels like a death. I miss his characters like old friends stolen before their time. This is not the only time Safran-Foer’s words have, in effect, killed me.

Several years ago, at about 4AM I got to the part in ‘Eating Animals’ where he shares the stories of the pregnant cows whose calves are discovered inside of them at slaughterhouses. I’m not going to go into more detail here, because it’s the single most upsetting animal-related thing I’ve ever read. Maybe it was being alone in my dimly lit room with an angry rain pounding on the roof. Maybe it’s the way that the dark and the quiet disrobe all the defenses you cloak yourself in during the day. I found myself so sickened, the kind that makes it impossible to think of anything but the suffering you just has described to you. The room spins, your heart unable to take such pain. I remember thinking “We’re told as children that monsters don’t exist, but I’ll bet no one ever asked a farmed animal”. That night, Safran Foer’s work gutted me. A part of me truly died and in doing so, provided a thick, impenetrable layer of emotional cement over my decision to live as a vegan for the rest of my life.

The most recent time Safran Foer killed me was this morning at about 11AM, when I saw this:

Once I regained consciousness, I tried to go to my happy place, but found that it had been turned into a Chipotle commercial.
And then I just got angrier.

Even the title of his video is nauseating. An appeal from Jonathan Safran Foer? An appeal? He is now appealing to us to eat “happy” chickens?

An appeal is worth celebrating when it promotes a just alternative. An appeal is not what happens when a burgeoning, elitist, niche market wants some hooky campaign to lure in well-intentioned eaters. Out of all the things to make an appeal on behalf of, it’s the “alternative” poultry producers who deserve the benefits of your endorsements, Safran-Foer? Do you really want to be any part of a club that allows Joel Salatin as a member? How about an appeal on behalf of the billions of farmed animals who die needlessly each year? How about an appeal to support the life-saving work of groups like Farm Sanctuary Vegan Outreach or Igualdad Animal?

I get it, you want to take a gigantic swing at the factory farms (who doesn’t?). But why stop there? Instead of taking advantage of a person’s inclinations towards empathy by promoting a form of farming that is still unnecessary, and capable of the same atrocities so often only cited as being present in factory farms (e.g.: mutilations, intensive confinement, separation of mother from baby, forced impregnation, “culling”, killing off male babies, etc.), why not advocate for a healthy, just and sustainable vegan lifestyle?

But anyone who has ever seen Safran-Foer speak knows that he’s no Gene Baur. Safran-Foer never even went fully vegan. He admitted when I saw him speak that he eats cheese from “farmers’ markets”, yet another one of those meaningless umbrella monikers that evoke the imagery of idyllic pastoral farmscapes, where farmer and cow march hand in hoof through golden fields. Don’t get me wrong, food accessibility and supporting organic, local fruit and vegetable producers is important to me. But I’m also not so easily fooled anymore. I have the answers, because people helped me learn the right questions. Now what I see at farmers’ market is actually shocking. It’s like people’s brains actually stop processing information when they are standing at a makeshift wooden stall being sold something by a person in a plaid shirt with a twinkle in their eye and soil under their fingernails. Instead of star-struck everybody’s farm-struck (y’heard it here first). Who cares if they can whittle or they make their own rugs, CHEESE FROM A FARMERS MARKETS IS STILL F$*KING CHEESE!

Image courtesy of John Beske

Is it really possible that Safran-Foer, a seemingly free-agent (read: fence sitter) when it came to actually taking a position and sticking with it, is now nothing more than a particularly clever puppet for the foodies? Despite speaking so eloquently about the inherent moral dilemmas of using animals (whether under the banner of factory farming or “free-range” farming), it would appear that he can now sleep easy having recommended that well-intentioned people simply buy into a newer, shinier myth that says “humane” farming is not only possible, but apparently common enough that “there’s an app for that”.

One thing you’ve got to give them props for is their straightforwardness. “BuyingPoultry.com”. Nothing says “alternative”, and “animals are not mere production units” like BuyingPoultry.com. But seriously– doesn’t the name reveal the same distanciated, distorted relationship with farmed animals that he argued so against in ‘Eating Animals’?

At this point the question that remains is: will Safran-Foer manage to kill me a fourth time? If his shenanigans persist, it’s highly likely. My imagination is running laps. I can just imagine all the fan mail he’s getting from the backyard butchers, and the free-range hucksters. Can’t you just see Michael Pollan emailing “Hey Jon! Thanks for finally coming to your senses! Pig roast @ my place on Saturday. Don’t worry, we eat the whole pig. Bring your friends!”

*Special thanks to John Beske for the use of his image!*

A letter to vegetarians: 5 reasons I wish I’d gone vegan sooner.

23 Aug

This is not meant to be some secular, vegan sermon from the mount. I get little pleasure in alienating myself from well-intentioned, goodhearted individuals, but some stuff just needs to be said.

I’d been vegetarian for years before I went vegan. I was never any good at watching those PETA videos, or reading in detail all the horrors endured by farmed animals at the merciless hands of fellow human beings. I thought no further than that consuming the flesh of a murdered animal was wrong.

Prior to my veganism, I was participating in what most call the ‘alternative’ (read: elite) food economy, happily paying the premiums associated with organic milk, free run eggs, etc. As far as I understood, so long as the animal products that I consumed were produced in this alternative way, there was no real moral dilemma. While I now fight feelings of guilt over believing this for so long, I also believe this misperception to be the intention of the animal agriculture industry whose hegemonic influence controls and shapes so much of the dialogue and discourse on food systems.

As bought into and morally comfortable as I was with supporting alternative animal agriculture, there were many critical truths hidden from me, and five in particular I want to share today. I say ‘hidden’ because they were in the truest sense of the word. I was one of those individuals who even visited the farms where my food came from, and I assure you if any of the following critical truths had been made even a smidgen clear to me, I’d have become vegan a lot sooner. It is my sincerest intention that this piece may potentially save you the time and heartache of finding out why vegetarianism, though a great start, isn’t enough.

Critical truth #1: The male calves

I never once as a vegetarian thought about what happened to all the calves born to pregnant cows. I never thought about this because I’d never cognitively processed that cows need to be kept impregnated in order to produce milk (and don’t feel foolish if you didn’t either!). While I was living in the fantasy world of no-meat = no-cruelty, I had no idea that the male calves born to pregnant dairy cows end up as the veal on the plate of some person whose face I want to kick in. I’ll never forget the moment I learned this– I felt duped, betrayed by all the promises made by the dairy companies I’d supported about welfare being the highest priority. If intentionally impregnating female animals and slaughtering their baby animals can be described as taking animal suffering seriously, then by that same standard John Wayne Gacy would have been a great babysitter. And the same goes for all dairy. When we consume a cow, sheep or goat’s milk, we are actively participating in the deaths of these baby animals.

Critical truth #2: The male chicks

Because farmed animals are seen as commodities (no different than say, car parts), when particular animals are seen as purposeless, they are discarded in ways that a psychologist would say must reflect some committed hatred for these little beings. Male chicks who are born onto farms serve no economic ‘function’ and are therefore disposed of in heinous ways. As though spawned from the imagination of some sociopath on steroids, chicks are thrown into grinders, manure pits, etc. When we consume eggs (regardless of whether the carton says ‘free-range’, ‘free-run’, ‘organic’) we are actively participating in this barbarism.

Critical truth #3: The ‘spent’ dairy cows

In my world, when someone retires there is generally a store-bought cake served on party napkins, greeting cards rife with bland jokes about what retirement life will entail, and one of the higher ups gives you a fancy watch. What does a dairy cow get after a life of service (a job she never applied for)? She gets ground into hamburger, that’s what. Despite having life expectancies of 20 years or more, most dairy cows are sent to slaughter as soon as their production decreases (at about 3 or 4 years of age). So by supporting dairy, we are participating in and supporting the meat industry, as it is ‘spent’ dairy cows who end up as the ‘lower quality’ meat in your grocery store.

Critical truth #4: Dairy is a feminist issue

Despite calling myself a feminist since I was a kid (which cost me big time on the playground), and despite having a rich understanding of feminist theory, it had somehow escaped my worldview that the mass, institutionalized control of female farmed animals is the entire basis of the dairy industry (and the meat industry too for that matter). The same dominionistic, patriarchal energy that has siloed men and women (‘us’ versus ‘them’), is responsible for the mammoth sized schism between humans and non-humans. Female cows have their babies stolen from them (sometimes at only a few hours old) and killed for food. Female pigs are confined and constrained in gestation and farrowing crates, and all female farmed animals have their reproductive systems controlled by a profit-thirsty, industrial system designed and perpetuated by a worldview that sees them as mere units, commodities, or capital (instead of as thinking, feeling, individuals). I now understand dairy to be the feminist issue.

Critical truth #5: Sneaky buggers

One thing I learned through my graduate work, is that so long as citizens shift their dollars to alternatively produced animal products (i.e.: ones with stated ‘welfare standards’; ‘organic’;  ’antibiotic free’, etc.) animal-use industries will find a way to co-opt the jargon, the packaging, the colour schemes and the narratives that come with them. Take for example the carton that paints a picture of quaint rurality that communicates several things: a) Old MacDonald lives here b) the cows are free to roam the pasture and appear healthy/happy c) this is an environmentally sustainable, ‘natural’ product. While this sort of packaging may have once been reserved for the organic, alternative (elite) supply markets– today’s eater (hopefully due to their empathetic nature) expects more, and industry is cleverly responding. So long as we settle or concede that the consumption of animals (in any way) is acceptable, we also create massive, lucrative opportunities for industry (with their gargantuan budgets)  to  convince people that their products pass some arbitrary ‘checklist’ for animal welfare, environment sustainability, etc.

I hope, dear vegetarians, that you’ll consider confronting the hypocrisy of abstaining from flesh while consuming dairy and eggs (which support and result in the same suffering and death one seeks to avoid as a vegetarian). May all the beautiful, empathetic reasons you decided to become vegetarian be the same reasons you decide to go vegan!

PS: I have been working on a straightforward visual representation of some of the major issues associated with consuming dairy. It can be found here, please share it far and wide!

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